We could go into the nitty-gritty mumbo jumbo that only an experienced engineer can understand but I’m guessing what you want to know is how bloody strong and durable they are.

In short, VERY (thank you for listening to my TED talk).

Our frame is made from powder-coated (or galvanised for the industrial look) steel. The cover is made from a PVC membrane that is doubled welded to each other to ensure that pesky sun doesn’t deteriorate it prematurely. Our insulation and curtains are made from a fire-retardant polyester fabric with the insulation also having a 4-6mm thick aluminium bubble sheeting on the back of it.

All of our hardware is either galvanised or stainless steel.
Yes, our domes are classified as tents but that is really only in the legal sense.

If you ARE an experienced engineer or think you can understand all the technical wizardry, then feel free to check out each size individually and you will see more specifics there.

King Domes vary in sizes from the cute and cuddly 5 metres to the goliath 10 metres in diameter.

Dome sizes:

5m = 2.9m roof height
6m = 3m roof height
7m = 4m roof height
8m = 4.7m roof height
10m = 5m roof height

However, if you want to give Texas a run for their money on having bigger, then we can definitely go larger.

When we talk about the size of our domes, we’re referring to their diameter – because who really wants to do complex geometry while planning a glamping getaway?

When we reference a 6m, it means 6m in diameter, we’re keeping it as simple as a koala’s diet plan – straightforward and no fuss. It means a straight line from one side of the dome to the other, no BS. Easy.

A geodesic dome is what happens when a tent and a math genius have a baby. It’s a spherical structure made of a complex network of triangles. These triangles create a self-supporting framework that’s both incredibly strong and visually stunning.

The design was popularized by a clever fellow named Buckminster Fuller, who probably never had to worry about his tent collapsing in a strong wind. In simple terms, it’s the architectural equivalent of a honeycomb: strong, efficient, and sweet to look at!

Think of our dome covers like sunscreen on your skin during a classic Aussie summer. They protect and last a good while – from a respectable 8 to a downright impressive 15 years. But just like spending too long under our fierce sun without reapplying sunscreen turns you into a wrinkled beetroot, our covers too can feel the brunt of the sun’s enthusiastic embrace over time.

When they start to show signs of too many sunny rendezvous, resembling a seasoned surfer after a decade-long beach holiday, there’s no need to uproot the whole dome. Simply give it a ‘facelift’ with a new cover, and it’s ready to go back to sunbathing, as fresh and inviting as a newly opened beach umbrella!

The variation in lifespan is all thanks to Australia’s impressively diverse climate – it’s like every weather pattern decided to have a reunion down under. Picture this: In one corner, you’ve got the Snowy Mountains, all decked out in winter white, giving our domes a chilly but gentle experience. Then, in a completely different setting, there’s the Outback, where the sun blazes down like a barbeque grill at a weekend cookout, testing the domes’ sunbathing skills. It’s this vast climate catwalk, from alpine cool to desert heat, that gives our covers a lifespan ranging from a sturdy 8 to a remarkable 15 years.

To minimise deteriorisation over time we recommend cleaning the cover quarterly and remove any vegetation/dust periodically (via a blower or hose). Placing a shade sale above the dome will maximise the lifespan of the dome drastically while also keeping that summer sun off the cover.

Can you leave the domes up full time? Absolutely! In fact, we suggest you do it. Imagine putting all that effort into setting up a swanky, unique glamping spot, only to pack it away a few months later – sounds as fun as folding a fitted sheet, doesn’t it?

Keep your dome up year-round, and keep those bookings rolling in. Trust me, you’d rather be toasting to a successful season than playing a frustrating game of ‘Find the Cutlery’ specific to Dome #3. Was it in the shed? Lost at Storage King? Who knows! Keep it simple, keep it up, and keep enjoying the glamping life.

Okay that is an oddly specific question to ask, reader  but hey, who are we to judge? Firstly, I think it is completely rational to fear creatures that can turn what was supposed to be a beautiful weekend away with the missus, into an ER visit from hell. But fear not. We have never heard an instance of an uninvited slippery branch of death showing up unexpectectly in one of our domes (please don’t be the first or else I will have to re-write this section).

Creepy-crawlies however can be a different story. Have you seen the video of a Huntsman Squeezing through a gap in a car in Adelaide? (Seriously, go check it out, I’ve linked it here). The sealing capabilities of the dome will be determinded by the foundation it sits on and how well the accessories and bottom perimeter or the dome has been sealed. Personally, I prefer spiders to bloody flies and mozzies but each to their own.

Why did we choose PVC over canvas? Because PVC is the waterproof wonder of the glamping world. It’s like a superhero suit tailored for Mother Nature’s mood swings. The secret lies in its tight threading, which ensures true water tightness. Plus, the entire cover is one piece – it’s like a seamless raincoat for your dome, making it as waterproof as a duck in a pond.

But, here’s a pro tip: To make your dome as watertight as a submarine, don’t forget to give a little extra love (and silicone) to the places where accessories meet the cover. We’re talking about the solar fans, porthole windows, and around the door. It’s like making sure your rain boots have no holes before jumping into a puddle – a bit of preventative care goes a long way in keeping everything snug and dry inside.

Our domes handle high winds like a kangaroo handles a jump – with surprising grace and strength. They’re rated to stand firm against winds howling up to 120 kp/h. Now, if the wind decides to throw a bit of a tantrum at 121 kp/h, it’s not like your dome will suddenly get an urge to see the world. That 120 kp/h is just its official tested rating, and it’s pretty sturdy.

We won’t go as far as to say they’re cyclone-rated – let’s leave that to the superheroes and storm chasers. However, our domes have faced down cyclone-level winds and lived to tell the tale. In our epic battles against the wind, it’s usually the dome’s connection to its foundation that waves the white flag first, not the structure itself. If you’re in a spot where the wind likes to show off its muscles, beefing up the hardware by increasing the length and width can boost your dome’s wind resistance to a gusty 160 kp/h. It’s like giving your dome a pair of heavy-duty boots to stand tall against the wind.

The dome’s design ensures that, rather than fighting the wind, they’re harmonizing with it, minimizing resistance and maximizing stability. Picture the dome as a round, smooth stone – the wind just glides over it, much like water over a pebble in a stream.

There is a huge misconception around our domes being immensely hot in summer. While yes, at first glance they are still ‘tents,’ our accessories make sure that that status is only of a legal sense. With our insulation, solar extraction fans, ventilation ports, black-out curtains and various window options, it can definitely keep the temperature cool inside.

The biggest factor in heat are:

1. the clear sections of our domes (bay window and central skylight). The only real negative feedback we have received is that the central skylight draws too much heat so we have removed this from our standard range. If you still want a skylight, we now give extra insulation panels to cover the skylight in the warmer months. In winter, the skylight is a great addition to warming up the internals but it does get quite hot in summer. The black out curtains act as a barrier of the harsh UV rays belting down and warming up the clear section of the bay window. My best suggestion is to not face the bay window toward the harsh arvo sun as much as possible.
2. Stagnant air. Taking you back to 8th grade science class (or even earlier for some of you gifted and talented folk), you were taught that hot air rises (it isn’t magic that lifts hot-air balloons off the ground unfortunately, actually I feel it is a bit of both.)

With our domes boasting up to 5m in roof height as well as being aided with the solar fans sucking the air through the roof and our ventilation ports allowing airflow between the inside and outside air, this helps to minimise this. However, until those beautiful coast winds come through, blowing all this hot air out, the air around you may still be still (if that makes sense, I dunno I may have been asleep for that class).

How do I move still air you might ask? Fans, A/C or flap your arms really quickly (and wave em like you just don’t care) to move that internal air. Opening everything up is the best bet for those with off-grid set ups (A/C can chew up a lot of power, fans, not so much).

The bay window and central skylight (if you have one) can help to keep a beautiful temperature in the dome during the day. “But Kingdomes, that is great and all but what about at the end of the day when the sun disappears?” Don’t worry your cute little warm butt reader, as we have solutions for that. We have worked with partners to create chimney plates that tick Aussie standards boxes to ensure you and your guests are comfy and safe during those cold nights.

Other methods (that use electricity, so again, be mindful off-gridders) are A/C, heaters and underfloor heating. The insulation helps to trap the heat internally as well. If you in extremely cold areas though, we do also remember installing insulated flooring during the construction stage (especially if on a deck).

Hail? More like a minor inconvenience for our domes. They handle it like a duck handles water – it just rolls right off. Our domes have faced down golf ball-sized hail and come out on the other side without a scratch, like they’ve just walked through a storm with an invisible umbrella.

Now, about sharp objects – they’re the real troublemakers. While our domes can take on hail like a champ, a sharp object is like that one uncle at a family BBQ who always tells the corny jokes – a bit too piercing. So, while a bit of ice from the sky is no problem, setting up under anything that could take a swipe at the cover (like those treacherous widow maker branches) is a no-go. It’s all about giving your dome the safest spot to strut its stuff.

Caring for your dome is easy. For the exterior, all it takes is some warm, soapy water mixed with your everyday dishwashing detergent. It’s like giving your dome a spa day, minus the fancy cucumber water. Just remember, strong chemicals are a no-no. They can weaken the cover’s integrity.

As for the insulation, it’s all about the gentle touch. A damp cloth or a wet/dry vac will make it as fresh as a daisy. But, be careful with water – too much and you might start a mold party, and trust me, that’s one party you don’t want to host. For a deep clean, think about hiring an upholstery cleaner from places like Bunnings. It’s like calling in the professionals for a home makeover, dome style.

We made a quick video on this, which can be found here.

As the frame is powder-coated, there shouldn’t be much maintenance (if any). Sometimes however the paint can chip during the build/transport stage in which case we recommend to touch up the affected area with paint to minimise the potential for rust to occur. Sometimes you may also have to go around and tighten the tension bars to keep the cover nice and taught. This too is quite rare though.

First off, don’t panic. It’s not dome-apocalypse. We’ve got you covered – literally. We provide extra clear and covered sections of our cover for just such an adventurous branch encounter. Think of it as a first-aid kit for your dome.

Now, assessing the situation is key. If the tear is more of a scratch than a gaping wound, patching it from the inside is your best bet. It’s like applying a band-aid where it’s less visible, especially if the insulation hides the boo-boo. For more ‘in-your-face’ tears, an outside job might be the way to go.

Here’s your DIY guide: Clean the tear and the patch piece like you’re prepping for surgery – any dust or debris is like that relative who always messes up family photos. Cut the patch to be just like Goldilocks’ porridge – not too big, not too small, just right. Using PVC membrane glue, apply it around the edges of the patch, stick it on, and make sure the edges are as smooth as a jazz musician’s riff. Magnets can be your best friends here, holding the patch in place while it sets, like a comforting hug.

But let’s talk worst-case scenario – if your dome cover looks like it’s been in a duel with Zorro, a new cover might be your go-to solution. It’s like getting a fresh start, a new canvas for your glamping masterpiece.

Our domes are ready to be your canvas (not literally), whether you’re aiming for a subtle personal touch or planning a full-blown dome makeover. For those looking to unleash their inner dome artist, we offer a consultation that’s part safety check, part creative brainstorming session. This includes a structural safety analysis (because even creativity needs a hard hat), custom layout plans, and manuals that are more helpful guide than mysterious riddle.

Feel like giving your dome a personal twist? Reach out to us. It’s like being a chef in your own kitchen, but instead of spices, you’re seasoning your dome with a dash of individuality.

Absolutely. We have multiple colours to choose from that range from colours that blend in with the natural surroundings to colours that stand right out from everything around it.

All the accessories on our domes have a multiple possible locations to place throughout. The total number of each accessory varies depending on which size dome you are after. Our window options for example can be swapped, removed or added from our Kingdomes Range.

There are too many ways in which our King Domes can be customised to mention here so it is best to reach out to us directly so that we can assist you more in-depth.

Yes, the colours for both the curtains and insulation can be changed. Our standard colours are a light grey for the insulation and a dark grey for the curtains to give a neutral colour scheme inside to match any interior layouts.

Can we deliver? Absolutely! But let’s talk logistics, because even dome delivery can have its moments of drama. The most wallet-friendly option is to get your new dome sent to the nearest depot. From there, you can roll up with your ute, trailer, or, if you’re nice, you may be able to ask the depot to deliver it to you.

Got a forklift, tractor, or a pet robot with fork attachments? Great, because if you can handle unloading a truck, you’re in for the next level of savings. Our domes range from a lightweight 500kg to a hefty over 1 tonne, so make sure your unloading gear can handle a bit of weightlifting.

Now, for those without fancy unloading gear, there’s the deluxe option. It’s like ordering pizza with all the toppings – it costs more, but the delivery comes with its own crane or forklift. It’s a bit like rolling out the red carpet for your dome’s grand entrance.

We can definitely deliver outside of the Australia, but the costs can vary substantially depending on factors such as location, local taxes, tariffs, number/size of domes etc. Any taxes and added fees are the responsibility of the purchaser. Shipping times cannot be accounted for and will be updated throughout the manufacturing process. We can work out more itemised quotes for shipping to your country/destination, just reach out to us directly.

We typically give a lead time of 8-12 weeks on average but up to 4 months in extreme circumstances . This time can vary depending on where you live, the size of the order and other factors. As our domes are customisable to the clients specifications, this time needs to also be factored in.

Australia is a big country and there are many factors that go into calculating freight costs. Factors include:

1. size of dome
2. number of domes
3. location
4. are you located in a popular freight route?
5. do you have the means to be able to unload the dome from the truck or will you require a crane or forklift to unload?